Walk 5

Parley Cross – Longham Lakes – Hampreston Church - Canford School – Knighton – Longham - Parley Cross (approx 10 miles)

Directions and local information, a a printable map (pdf)

Start at Parley Cross. Take Christchurch Road West on the south side for 50 yards to Ridgeway.

This is an ancient track leading to the River Stour. Once known as Dudsbury Lane, it is very likely to have been used by smugglers after crossing the Stour. Kinson, in north Bournemouth, was well known as a centre of the trade after goods were landed on the coast and came inland on a network of tracks across the heathland. The obvious crossing point of the Stour locally was over the bridge at Longham but this could be easily monitored by the customs men so another crossing point nearby was needed.

Just west of the Hill Fort the River Stour is shallower and it is thought that goods crossing there by boat, or horse and cart were brought along a track on the north bank and then north up the track via Ridgeway and across Parley Common to Ringwood.

In another 50 yards turn left onto the footpath (FP) and follow the FP to cross the field. On a clear day the Isle of Wight can be seen. There has been some settlement here through the ages, especially as this is next to the Iron Age Hill fort. Its construction would have required a workforce of thousands, settled here over many years or decades. The land here is dry yet there are fresh water springs locally along Ridgeway at the bottom of the hill.

Through the gate at the top of the field you enter The Pear car park. The Pear has been a popular public house for many years and has been improved over the last 10 years. It was built in 1928 as a gentleman’s residence on one of the highest parts of the village with superb views south across the Stour valley to Bournemouth. Romano-British pottery (made in the New Forest) was found when the footings were dug for the building. The old oak tree on the approach road to the pub from Christchurch Road West is some 325 years old, one of the oldest trees in the village.

A large housing development is planned for this area, stretching from the main road here down the hill to New Road, including a link road. Despite local opposition and close proximity to the hill fort this unique quiet area may be lost for ever in the next few years.

Follow the FT across the drive to the southern perimeter of the hill fort - Dudsbury Camp. This Iron Age (700BC-43AD) fort has probably been built on existing defence works on the highest ground on the edge of the River Stour. Double rampart defences enclose a centre of about 8 acres. The openings on the south west and west sides are probably original. The steep side to the south is due to the River Stour eroding the cliff since it was originally built.

In its original form the fort would have been an impressive structure with the ramparts topped with wooden posts and the ditches considerably deeper than they are now.

The Camp is a Scheduled Monument of national importance. There was a limited excavation of the site in the 1920s to define the extent of the original banks and ditches and Iron Age pottery finds were made. Small items of Roman pottery have been found 300yds to the east.

The west side of the site is owned by the Girl Guides who have held camps here since 1931. In 2017 the Guides carried out a heritage project to raise awareness of the site and its use by the Guides. Much overgrown vegetation was cleared by West Parley Volunteers and Bournemouth University carried out a ground radar scan to try to find any historic items (without success). Signage was put up and many trees on the south part of the hill fort were removed to restore the tremendous views south towards Bournemouth.

The most significant part of the project was the construction by Guides, their families and West Parley Volunteers of a replica of an Iron Age roundhouse using local materials wherever possible. The roundhouse construction was entered into the Community Project section of the 2017 Dorset Best Kept Village competition and gained a second place as reward for all the hard work involved in its construction.

On leaving the Guide Camp if you walk down the access road for a short distance you can see the 2 rings of the hill fort on the right hand side of the track. A bit further on there is a large oak tree on the left hand side of the track that is around 360 years old, one of the oldest standing trees in the village.

Turn round and return to the FP turn right then follow if down towards the River Stour. Dudsbury Golf Course on the right has been proposed for another large housing development.

Follow the FP until you reach the main road at the Bridge House Hotel. This was originally Bridge Farm until the 1930s. Many stars of summer shows in Bournemouth used to stay here, attracted by the scenic location, horse riding, fishing in the Stour and afternoon tea.

After Telly Sevalas earned $1m playing Blofeld in the 1969 Bond film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service he bought the hotel and a couple of his family members ran it for him. In the last few years a £2m investment in upgrading the hotel means there are now 49 en suite rooms.

Being next to the Stour the grounds are known to flood each year with the water coming right up to the edge of the hotel and the island opposite being completely under water. From the hotel you can see Longham Bridge, one of the few bridges over the Stour. The current Longham Bridge was built in 1728 and improved in 1792 but bridges here have been recorded on maps in 1687 and in the 14th century. This is a natural crossing point as the river can be very low at times and may have been used by prehistoric travellers.

There was a water mill to the west of the bridge on a mill stream but this was removed when the pumping station was built in 1885. Just over the bridge is Millhams Road, an ancient track that leads to Kinson, called Kingston in the 18th and 19th centuries, one of the oldest parts of Bournemouth. The ancient St Andrews Church, with origins as a Saxon site, is only about ½ mile along the Lane.

Cross the busy Road (A348) with care and walk towards the Waterworks. Turn right at the FP sign on to the gravel drive and then through a gateway on to the FP. Cross over at the stile in 50 yards and walk along the FP between the avenue of newly planted saplings for another 100 yards. At the corner of the FP cross the stile on your left into the Longham Lakes enclosure. A short gentle climb takes you on to the gravel path around the lakes.

The site was excavated for sand and gravel from 1994 and now used for water storage for the adjoining water treatment works. The smaller lake opened in 2009. The larger lake is for use by local clubs for canoeing, model yachts and model planes whilst the smaller one is just for fishing. 147 species of birds have been recorded here. The study centre can be hired and is used for education on conservation issues and training.

In archaeological excavations in 1992 a number of prehistoric finds were made, including Bronze Age pottery and worked flints. This area was widely settled at this time with a large cremation site at Simon’s Ground close to Stapehill to the north-west.

A part of a mammoth tusk was found at the Lakes during excavation of the sand and gravel. It is about 2-3 ft long and was sent to the Natural History Museum for verification and preservation some years ago. It is in a glass case at the Centre and can be seen if the Centre is open.

Some fired musket balls have been found nearby, possibly from the Civil War.

Follow the gravel path round the lake then bear left on the path between the 2 lakes and at the style at the end turn left. In 20 yards there is a gap in the hedge where the footpath to Hampreston starts.

Turn left after the style for a few yards then take the path to the right and follow it round the edge of the field to Hampreston, crossing the stile after 100 yards and continue walking for 400 yards towards the church. Take a gate on the left and walk to a brick wall in the churchyard. Turn right and walk by the side of it, through the path next to the church and out the front gate.

Hampreston is a small ancient hamlet off the main route from Christchurch to Wimborne on the north side of the River Stour. All Saints church has evidence of C12 origins and an early C14 chancel. There are some good stained glass windows.

The parish included the whole of Ferndown before 1972 as Ferndown was mainly open heath with a few small farmhouses before its huge postwar expansion. The parish population increased from 1860 in 1921 to 11750 in 1971.

From the church walk out to the road and turn right. Hampreston First School here was built in 1874 but the school started 2 years before in a small thatched cottage some 2 miles away. There are now 74 pupils there. It is worth a look at the school’s web site for copies of the school logbooks from 1863 to 1984.

When you reach the main road, Ham Lane, turn left and cross the road at the traffic island. Walk along the cyclepath for 400 yards and cross the road again and go down Old Ham Lane until you reach the farm on the left on the sharp bend in the road. Take the narrow road to the left until you reach a stile on the left in about 300 yards. Cross the stile and follow the footpath along the River Stour to Canford School.

Just past the school buildings on the opposite bank there is a large footbridge. Cross the bridge and turn left and then right in front of the parish church. It is the chapel of the school and is nearly 1000 years old.

Canford School is one of the UK’s top independent co-educational senior boarding schools with some 660 pupils. It was founded in 1923. The building was originally a private country house dating back to the early 1800s and was co-designed by the architect of the Houses of Parliament. It has one of only 4 real tennis courts in the country. It was formerly the estate and home of Lord Wimborne.

Canford Magna is an ancient village that is now occupied mainly by teaching staff at the school. Follow the road through the village until you pass the vehicular entrance to Canford School. Cross the road where the pavement ends and use the pavement on the opposite side. At Magna House cross the road again on to the footpath (SP Stour Valley Way and FP29 Bear Wood). Follow the gravel path for a short way then go through the metal gate on your left and keep on the path past the tennis courts towards football pitches. Follow SVW signs by the side of the pitches and keep on the SVW.

You will pass close to Knighton village, another ancient Stour hamlet and Knighton House, a C17 building remodelled in the 19th Century. Continue on the SVW until you meet the Ringwood Road, just north of Bear Cross. Cross the road (with care) and follow the pavement left. Walking over Longham Bridge have a look at the old metal sign on the wall over the road in the centre of the bridge. It reads:

DORSET
Any person wilfully INJURING any
part of this COUNTY BRIDGE will be
guilty of FELONY and upon conviction
liable to be TRANSPORTED FOR
LIFE
By the Court T Fooks

You have been warned!!

Pass the Bridge House Hotel just past Longham Bridge and take the footpath to Dudsbury along the River Stour and return to Parley Cross.

This crossroads was only created when Ensbury Bridge over the River Stour was built in 1912 and New Road built although New Road initially only went as far as Mags Barrow. It was paid for by local landowner as better access to Bournemouth would lead to an increase in land values.

From the 1920s through to the 1950s Parley Cross was just a few houses and shops that served the small local community There was Chubbs Garage on one corner, a tea room and sweet shop where Tescos is now, greengrocers, fruitiers and a Post Office / grocer.

Stewarts Nursery and Garden Centre occupied the large field opposite the current row of shops on which the new Lidl store has been built and massive housing development is under way.

Parley Cross was quiet into the 1950s but the massive expansion of Ferndown and the surrounding area led to a huge increase in road traffic and it is now one of the busiest road junctions in Dorset.

Hope you enjoyed this walk!