Walk 3, Parley Cross – Longham Lakes – Angel Inn – Parley Cross (approx 5 miles )

This interesting walk also has 2 optional extra routes to explore. They are in italics.

Directions and local information, a printable map (pdf)

Start at Parley Cross. Take Christchurch Road West on the south side for 50 yards to Ridgeway.

This is an ancient track leading to the River Stour. Once known as Dudsbury Lane, it is very likely to have been used by smugglers after crossing the Stour. Kinson, in north Bournemouth, was well known as a centre of the trade after goods were landed on the coast and came inland on a network of tracks across the heathland. The obvious crossing point of the Stour locally was over the bridge at Longham but this could be easily monitored by the customs men so another crossing point nearby was needed.

Just west of the Hill Fort the River Stour is shallower and it is thought that goods crossing there by boat, or horse and cart were brought along a track on the north bank and then north up the track via Ridgeway and across Parley Common to Ringwood.

In another 50 yards turn left onto the footpath (FP) and follow the FP to cross the field. On a clear day the Isle of Wight can be seen. There has been some settlement here through the ages, especially as this is next to the Iron Age Hill fort. Its construction would have required a workforce of thousands, settled here over many years or decades. The land here is dry yet there are fresh water springs locally along Ridgeway at the bottom of the hill.

Through the gate at the top of the field you enter The Pear car park. The Pear has been a popular public house for many years and has been improved over the last 10 years. It was built in 1928 as a gentleman’s residence on one of the highest parts of the village with superb views south across the Stour valley to Bournemouth. Romano-British pottery (made in the New Forest) was found when the footings were dug for the building. The old oak tree on the approach road to the pub from Christchurch Road West is some 325 years old, one of the oldest trees in the village.

A large housing development is planned for this area, stretching from the main road here down the hill to New Road, including a link road. Despite local opposition and close proximity to the hill fort this unique quiet area may be lost for ever in the next few years.

Follow the FP across the drive and continue on this path to the southern perimeter of the hill fort - Dudsbury Camp. This Iron Age (700BC-43AD) fort has probably been built on existing defence works from the Bronze Age on the highest ground on the edge of the River Stour. Double rampart defences enclose a centre of about 8 acres. The openings on the south west and west sides are probably original. The steep side to the south is due to the River Stour eroding the cliff since it was originally built.

In its original form the fort would have been an impressive structure with the ramparts topped with wooden posts and the ditches considerably deeper than they are now.

The Camp is a Scheduled Monument of national importance. There was a limited excavation of the site in the 1920s to define the extent of the original banks and ditches and Iron Age pottery finds were made. Small items of Roman pottery have been found 300yds to the east.

The west side of the site is owned by the Girl Guides who have held camps here since 1931. In 2017 the Guides carried out a heritage project to raise awareness of the site and its use by the Guides. Much overgrown vegetation was cleared by West Parley Volunteers and Bournemouth University carried out a ground radar scan to try to find any historic items (without success). Signage was put up and many trees on the south part of the hill fort were removed to restore the tremendous views south towards Bournemouth.

The most significant part of the project was the construction by Guides, their families and West Parley Volunteers of a replica of an Iron Age roundhouse using local materials wherever possible. The roundhouse construction was entered into the Community Project section of the 2017 Dorset Best Kept Village competition and gained a second place as reward for all the hard work involved in its construction.

On leaving the Guide Camp if you walk down the access road for a short distance you can see the 2 rings of the hill fort on the right hand side of the track. A bit further on there is a large oak tree on the left hand side of the track that is around 360 years old, one of the oldest standing trees in the village.

Turn round and return to the FP turn right then follow if down towards the River Stour. Dudsbury Golf Course on the right has been proposed for another large housing development.

Follow the FP until you reach the main road at the Bridge House Hotel. This was originally Bridge Farm until the 1930s. Many stars of summer shows in Bournemouth used to stay here, attracted by the scenic location, horse riding, fishing in the Stour and afternoon tea.

After Telly Sevalas earned $1m playing Blofeld in the 1969 Bond film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service he bought the hotel and a couple of his family members ran it for him. In the last few years a £2m investment in upgrading the hotel means there are now 49 en suite rooms.

Being next to the Stour the grounds are known to flood each year with the water coming right up to the edge of the hotel and the island opposite being completely under water.

From the hotel you can see Longham Bridge, one of the few bridges over the Stour. The current Longham Bridge was built in 1728 and improved in 1792 but bridges here have been recorded on maps in 1687 and in the 14th century. This is a natural crossing point as the river can be very low at times and may have been used by prehistoric travellers.

If you walk onto Longham Bridge have a look at the old metal sign on the wall over the road in the centre of the bridge. It reads:

DORSET
Any person wilfully INJURING any
part of this COUNTY BRIDGE will be
guilty of FELONY and upon conviction
liable to be TRANSPORTED FOR
LIFE
By the Court T Fooks

You have been warned!!

There was a water mill to the west of the bridge on a mill stream but this was removed when the pumping station was built in 1885. Just over the bridge is Millhams Road, an ancient track that leads to Kinson, called Kingston in the 18th and 19th centuries, one of the oldest parts of Bournemouth. The ancient St Andrews Church, with origins as a Saxon site, is only about ½ mile along the Lane.

This walk continues to the lakes but there is an option given later to walk through Longham village.

Cross the busy Road (A348) with care and walk towards the Waterworks. Turn right at the FP sign on to the gravel drive and then through a gateway on to the FP. Cross over at the stile in 50 yards and walk along the FP between the avenue of newly planted saplings for another 100 yards. At the corner of the FP cross the stile on your left into the Longham Lakes enclosure. A short gentle climb takes you on to the gravel path around the lakes.

The site was excavated for sand and gravel from 1994 and now used for water storage for the adjoining water treatment works. The smaller lake opened in 2009. The larger lake is for use by local clubs for canoeing, model yachts and model planes whilst the smaller one is just for fishing. 147 species of birds have been recorded here. The study centre can be hired and is used for education on conservation issues and training.

In archaeological excavations in 1992 a number of prehistoric finds were made, including Bronze Age pottery and worked flints. This area was widely settled at this time with a large cremation site at Simon’s Ground close to Stapehill to the north-west.

A part of a mammoth tusk was found at the Lakes during excavation of the sand and gravel. It is about 2-3 ft long and was sent to the Natural History Museum for verification and preservation some years ago. It is in a glass case at the Centre and can be seen if the Centre is open.

Some fired musket balls have been found nearby, possibly from the Civil War.

Follow the gravel path round the Lakes to the north- west corner and take the stile into a lane which takes you northward along High Mead Lane to Ham Lane.

Alternative route via Longham Village

At the car park for the Hotel turn right and walk along the A348 for about half a mile. Longham is an ancient settlement and at one time the largest in the area with a map of 1815 showing continuous properties along the main road. These were mixed with the larger Longham House on the left (now 2 houses) and Longham Farm (both C18 and Grade 2 listed).

Most cottages would have been thatched roof / cob wall construction for farm workers. Some have been replaced by modern businesses and houses but the whole road reflects the ancient history of the village.

Longham was believed to be planned to be developed as a large model village and rapid development was expected. This did not happen and Longham remained a scattering of a few thatched cottages, the 4 distinctive Canford Estate (also known as Lady Wimborne) cottages opposite the pub, some scattered substantial houses, including the C18 Longham Farm and an earlier building, now the White Hart pub.

The pub was one of the many houses locally owned by Isaac Gulliver, a renowned local smuggler. The former Post Office over the road from the White Hart was listed in a business directory in 1859 as a Post Office / shop and ‘coffee tavern’ and the same in 1880 and 1903. The PO / shop only closed about 5 years ago and the property developed as a group of houses.

You can see the United Reform Church over the crossroads with the east / west route from Christchurch to Wimborne. Built in 1841, this is a very large church for the size of the local population at the time. An 1815 map of the area shows a number of cottages on the opposite corner but they were cleared when Holmwood House (more details later in the walk) was built.

Returning south, there is a stone next to the car dealers to show the site of an animal pound. This was used to hold stray sheep, pigs and cattle and nearly every medieval village had one. Owners had to pay a fee to the pound keeper to return animals.

Continue south for a short distance and turn right and go down Green Lane to the end and turn right into High Mead Lane that takes you to Ham Lane.

Cross Ham Lane on to the FP. It soon opens up from a narrow path into a wide field. Stop when the wooden footbridge is on your right.

Option - If you fancy seeing a few more historical sites or make a longer walk do not go across the footbridge leading to Conegar Farm but keep straight on the FP to Stapehill Road then turn right at Stapehill Road passing Trehane Nurseries to Knoll Gardens. Knoll Gardens one of the UKs leading centres for ornamental grasses and flowering perennials and a regular gold medal winner at Chelsea Flower show. There is a café in the Gardens if you need a break.

Turn right just before Knoll Gardens into Pompeys Lane. In about 100 yards on your left is a site known as Simons Ground, a string of of 7 small round barrows scattered across a low escarpment over a distance of some 450m. Of these barrows 5 are cemetery barrows with 4 of them having adjacent urn fields. 5 barrows were excavated from 1967 – 69 and 1971 and a lot was learned about Bronze Age settlements in East Dorset. 2 of the Barrows had already been destroyed but excavations revealed a large amount of pottery and 300 urns containing 180 cremations, the largest urn site in the country. This site is to the rear of Trehane Nurseries.

Continue on Pompeys Lane passing a house called Arromanches, on to Conegar Lane then turn left on to Angel Lane to the A348 opposite The Angel pub.

If you are on the original route from Ham Lane and did not use the optional walk above cross the footbridge on the left towards Coneygar Farm. At the cross roads in the farm area proceed straight across to the FP opposite. Follow the FP into a lane that takes you via sharp left and right hand bends past houses on Angel Lane. Turn right at the A348 opposite the Angel pub.

There has been a pub on this site, the main road from Poole to Ringwood since the 1700s. Run by a monk and nuns for weary travellers.

Cross the road and take the bridlepath to Poor Common which is through the gate of number 180 Ringwood Road. 2 green metal post here. On the right was large private house called Holmwood House Built in C19 within a large parkland. Formerly a large farmstead, after a house fire it was rebuilt in the 1950’s.

Parts of the house and outbuildings are now the Longham Business Centre and the north part of the estate is now a development of houses.

Follow the path ahead through the wood.

This whole area was known as Poor Common and was part of an unenclosed heathland common stretching from Parley Common to Colehill. Used from medieval times it was enclosed in the 19th Century with part being left open for the poor of the parish to collect fuel but they could not graze stock.

Concealed in the woods was one of almost 500 bases built after 1940 as part of a resistance movement created by Prime Minister Churchill to hinder any German advance in the event of invasion. This was manned by a secret Auxiliary unit formed of some of the best Home Guard members and other local men. These units were stood down in 1944 and the Bases fell into disuse. Thought at the time to have been an air raid shelter, it was only in the 1960s that details of the real use of these Bases were revealed. The WW2 bunker was exposed in 2020 and the information panel erected to explain its significance.

Just north of the old Base on Poor Common is a large claypit that supplied bricks for local houses until the early 20th Century.

In the Covid lockdown the 15 hectares of Poor Common was decorated by local residents with 100 fairy doors being placed among the tree bases.

Passing the Coppins estate on your right then stop at Christchurch Road. Notice the huge tree base on the corner. This was once the largest tree in Parley, over 350 years old. It was cut down as part of the Coppins housing development despite a Tree Preservation Order being on it.

Just out of sight on the road west to Longham and Wimborne stands a large former farmhouse called Hilliamsland which is now part of Dudsbury Golf Club. It was owned between 1791 to 1793 by the infamous local smuggler, Isaac Gulliver, who dominated the local smuggling trade for many years. There are large cellars under the building.

It is known that goods landed at Christchurch would have been moved through Hurn and West Parley at this point on their way west to Wimborne and on to Cranborne and goods also came north via Kinson.

Walk the short distance on Christchurch Road to the corner of Linden Road. Now a building site for new houses, this was formerly the site of Dudsbury Barrow. It was excavated in 1935 and was found to be in 2 phases. The initial mound, about 35ft in diameter was composed mostly of turves that covered an oval grave of sand which once held a crouched inhumation. The mound was later enlarged and a substantial ditch was cut around it and a secondary cremation under an inverted collared or ridged food - vessel urn was placed in it. After excavation the barrow was removed.

Despite its removal there will be evidence of the barrow on this site as the infilled ditch will be of a different material than the surrounding natural ground. Once again this was a Bronze Age barrow positioned on high ground with extensive views around.

You are entering a part of the current village of West Parley that was once the separate hamlet of Dudsbury, mentioned in the Domesday Book. There were a number of cob walled farms and cottages on the main Christchurch Road that have been replaced with more modern buildings from the top of the hill on the south side down to Parley Cross. Even in maps from 1940 there was very little settlement here.

Horns Inn on the opposite side of the road was built in the 17th century and has been an inn since that time. Inns were often just rooms in private houses with beer brewed locally. Being on the main road between Wimborne and Christchurch it was well used by travellers and it is easy to visualise this location at the top of the hill being a welcome stopping point.

There are a number of large oak trees here. The tree in the Horns car park and others close by are some 300 years old.

Dudsbury Farm, a large farm building with a separate barn and carriage shed, was shown on an 1860 map. It was set back from the main road between the Horns and the Owls Nest. Being of cob construction and not being maintained it finally collapsed in the late 1930s.

The Owls Nest was formerly The Parley and Dudsbury Social Club.

Continuing down the hill, the large plot of land to the east of the track to The Pear is due to become a large housing development, the subject of much local opposition.

Gallows Drive is on the left. The only gallows in West Parley was over a mile away to the north east. It was the last gallows used in the south of England to display the bodies of 2 local men hung for murder in 1812.

Continue down the hill to Parley Cross. This crossroads was only created when Ensbury Bridge over the River Stour was built in 1912 and New Road built although initially it only went as far as Mags Barrow. It was paid for by a local landowner as better access to Bournemouth would lead to an increase in land values.

From the 1920s through to the 1950s Parley Cross was just a few houses and shops that served the small local community There was Chubbs Garage on one corner, a tea room and sweet shop where Tescos is now, greengrocers, fruitiers and a Post Office / grocer.

Stewarts Nursery and Garden Centre occupied the large field opposite the current row of shops on which the new Lidl store has been built and massive housing development is under way.

Parley Cross was quiet into the 1950s but the massive expansion of Ferndown and the surrounding area led to a huge increase in road traffic and it is now one of the busiest road junctions in Dorset.

Hope you enjoyed this walk!